Spariam creates sleek, modern jewellery with recycled elements

Spariam is a small-scale production label creating contemporary designs in a versatile choice of materials. The workshop produces ten models each week, along with three 50-model winter, summer and high summer collections. Based in Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro, the Spariam workshop consists of owner and designer Patricia Sparano and two other craftspersons, while their partners and a team of resin manufacturers and seamstresses also offer help for the bigger-scale production.

Typical materials for a Spariam piece are 950 silver, resin, fabrics, vegetal leather, plus other materials Ms Sparano discovers that would otherwise go to the garbage. "We don't use anything made from animals. As the resin we use is in fact not very ecological, we try to compensate for it with the rest of the materials."

Transforming everything possible into jewellery is their philosophy. They will put a piece of packaging, a torn piece of newspaper, waste fabrics together with resin and silver, turning them into new pieces. Multi-functionality is another speciality of Spariam jewellery. "I usually create pieces with more than one function, like a bracelet that is also a ring support, or a glass holder that is also a bracelet, combining decoration with fashion." Rings and bracelets are Spariam's most sought-after products.

The label's latest collection took its inspiration from Ms Sparano's favourite sunny beach city, Buzios. The colour scheme comes from the sea, the sand and the stone-paved streets, and the image of the city is realised in resin jewellery with plenty of transparency and colours. Various typical Brazilian fibres are heavily applied to present the colourful flora and fauna. Hats and bags in the same materials are made both by Spariam and the outsourcing workforce. One design highlight is a straw bag that turns into a big straw mat when unfolded, perfect for beach or picnic.

The wholesale price of Spariam jewellery depends on the materials used, and ranges from US$5.00 to US$100.00. The label used to focus only on the Brazilian market plus Australia and Buenos Aires, but with their novel collection they intend to reach a wider audience around the globe.

Trendy femininity revealed in Pequenas Bijoux pieces

Based in Rio de Janeiro and offering modern yet feminine jewellery to women of all walks of life, Pequenas Bijoux is a dream realised by four old friends who wished to add a new vibe to the fashion jewellery business with a bit of their personal taste and trendy details.

"We have actually been using a lot of handmade or handcrafted techniques in our jewellery. We use satin and pearls, while lately we are using a lot of leather patchworking in our production," Ianna Gomes, one of the owners of Pequenas Bijoux, told us.

In addition to the more feminine elements mentioned, metal is the vital component of a signature piece of the label. Golden and silvery metal pieces are their most well-received products - which is not surprising, as their sleek, streamlined design often brings out the contemporary elegance of the modern woman.

Pequenas Bijoux jewellery wholesales at an average of US$25. Producing in-house in their workshop in Rio and in another in northern Brazil, they also outsource procedures to their partners. Apart from jewellery, they are launching a small handbag collection for Summer 2010 using typical Brazilian fibres including sisal and straw.

With their Winter 2010 jewellery collection in its post-production stage, Ms Gomes said that so far their metallic and leather series are most accepted by buyers. For the time being, the company's clientele comprises local boutiques and small-scale shops, but now they are targeting expanding to chain stores.

Aiming to rescue ethnic jewellery and promote equality and cultural diversity, Africa Universal has an outstanding image as a dedicated ethnic jewellery label offering organic pieces in vibrant colours.

Producing approximately 100 styles for each collection, the company manufactures 1,000 to 3,000 pieces per month, combining industrial techniques, for example computer-aided drawing tools, rapid prototyping and laser cutting, with traditional craftsmanship.

Ethnically African herself, owner and designer Anna Assis regards herself as one of the few black designers in the Brazilian jewellery industry. She has been developing a partnership between Brazil and the African continent. In 2009, along with the Consulate of Angola, the label launched a "Friendship Bracelet" in Rio.

Amber, turquoise, metal beads and other materials create an exciting colour and texture combo for Africa Universal's earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Ms Assis said: "Our most popular pieces are porcelain bead rope necklaces and bracelets made from horn and bone, which are recycled and environmentally friendly." Africa Universal jewellery wholesales from US$50.

The 2010 Africa Universal collection, "Gods and men - the roots of the majestic creation," draws inspiration from African gods and the influence of faith on human civilisations. Masks, plastics, Brazilian designs, eye-catching amber and turquoise beads from China, metals and shells all appear on the carved pieces made from reused wood - handmade from materials from Africa and Brazil. The launch of an apparel collection continuing its philosophy will be the company's next big thing in 2011.

Brazilian fashion jewellery trends

Just as in any other part of the world, Brazilian women pay much attention to accessorising themselves. Ms Gomes of Pequenas Bijoux expects glitzy rock star elements such as tacks to be present in the upcoming winter. For summer next year, she anticipates vibrant tones and golden jewellery.

Similarly, Ms Sparano views the upcoming fashion jewellery trend in Brazil as one with a lot of bangles, combining materials such as chains, leather and resin. Chunky rings will be another continuing trend, according to the designer. As for earrings, she said popular styles will tend to be small in winter, but mega-earrings will be revived in summer, with dashes of light tones of nature like fresh blue, green and sand.

Ms Assis, on the other hand, mentioned that environmentally friendly products, mixed metals in various hues, voluminous jewellery structures and alternative materials will rock the upcoming Brazilian scene.

On sustainability

All three companies regard eco-friendliness and sustainability as a minimum requirement in jewellery production today. "The eco-trend is a trend of Brazil and the world. Sustainability [in jewellery production] should be considered fundamental to all companies that seek growth," said Ms Assis.

"The eco-trend is evolving with each passing year in Brazil, not only in the fashion business but in all areas. In our opinion, people are becoming more sensible about the importance of the environment," said Ms Gomes.

"I believe that when the company is conscientious, that consciousness is probably revealed in every area. If we take care of rubbish [recycling it] and protect the environment, we're in fact working to create a better country," Ms Sparano said.

Apart from looking forward to new manufacturing technologies that are less harmful and hostile to the environment, she is worried about the depletion of natural gems. "If it develops even further, natural gems will be extinct. However, with new technologies the synthetic gems look so perfect that I believe in the future they'll be heavily applied instead of the natural ones."

Photographer: Fabio Cancela for Africa Universal

Source: Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Review