Quality over quantity – Israeli fashion jewellery today

Israeli fashion jewellery and designer- manufacturers are becoming increasingly influential on an international scale. Here, the limited handmade collections that offered them a niche remain their stronghold. Five companies shared with us their thoughts about the positioning of Israeli production.

Low quantity, top quality as advantage

"Israel, in the last decade, has become known for its jewellery designs, influencing the trends and styles in the fashion accessories markets all over the world." Israela Karmy, the brains behind fashion jewellery label Ella KJ, said. Since 2004, Ms Karmy has been directing her workshop in Tel-Aviv to meet different market segments. Since 2008, as a member of the IJMA (Israeli Jewellery Manufacturers Association) and the Israeli Export Institute, the company has begun exporting, starting with the US market, and has planned for additional countries and target markets in 2010. Another designer-manufacturer, Anat Shimron, said her collection is based on small-quantity production, and she thinks that the consumers prefer it. "It has a uniqueness and also a value." Since a year and a half ago she has owned a workshop in her hometown of Hod Hasharon, producing mostly handmade jewellery. She also tailor-makes pieces, so some of her works are one-off. Usually selling from home, Ms Shimron's collection comprises mainly silver jewellery.

Ella KJ Anat Shimron

Oolalaa Orit Karseboom

Producing eco-friendly yet edgy pieces in her workshop in south Tel-Aviv, Miri Ginzburg-Alony agrees that most Israeli jewellery designers manufacture in small quantity, mainly for the local market; but it is hard for her to judge its influence on other markets like Europe and Asia. "I consider Israeli jewellery very unusual and people all around the world appreciate it. I am not sure if it is big enough to be influential at this point. Yet, you can find unique and beautiful work among the local artists and designers." Her label, Oolalaa, was established in 2005, producing limited-edition handmade series, each style comprising no more than 50 pieces. With an international clientele, the company currently puts more effort into its US and Japanese markets. Orit Karseboom, who also started her jewellery production business in 2005, holds more or less the same opinion. "I don't think it [small-quantity manufacturing] is one of the main trends, but it is definitely popular in Israel, where there are many talented artists. People are not afraid to turn their hobby into a business." Her workshop in Haifa in northern Israel produces jewellery that corresponds to contemporary art and is characterised by the analysis of the materials' limits and by meticulous handicraft. "In an age of mass production, I create unique jewellery that has a language of its own."

Most experienced among the five, Anat Collection, established in 1985, has been exporting its medium to high-end merchandise to the world since 1996. Its minimum order is a dozen per style, and the figure can go up to hundreds. "However, our products are unique and employ complicated handmade techniques, and it is not a ‘mass production,'" said Anat Perez, designer and owner of the company. "The fashion jewellery industry in Israel is more about quality items than high quantity. The resources needed are now available in Israel, which makes it easier for smaller companies to prosper." She related that Israel's fashion jewellery offers a new perspective on the Asian market based on new techniques and new designs. "Israel is a much smaller market than Asia, so the influence we have might not be huge; but we are able to bring new ideas. Most companies are selling items that cannot be sold in large quantities. The items that are being produced are more one-of-a-kind: this is our added value."

Anat Collection Ella KJ

Style to impress

Stunning designs, a niche of limited-quantity collections plus the careful selection of materials and application of superior production skills quite obviously comprise the key to these companies' popularity among fashionistas who do not regard fashion jewellery as disposables.

Ella KJ Anat Shimron

Ms Karmy of Ella KJ designs two main collections a year, also adding new designs between the seasons. They are influenced by the Israeli summer, which is all about the sun, the sea and marine life, and are in golden, silver, earth tones and more. Along with the expansion of the company, she is devoted to researching new and unique materials. At present, the Ella Karmy designs are all handmade from materials such as Austrian and Czech crystal, a variety of gems and other quality materials, metal chains and pendants, leather, cotton and fabric flowers. As for Anat Shimron, affected by market conditions, for example the price of gold and the recession, most of her jewellery is made from fine or sterling silver. "I'm combining colour elements in metal. It can be pigmented with epoxy or colourfill, the colour elements can be sealed or transparent, as I choose." After releasing her "Loops," "Tiles" and "Petals" collections, she has just rolled out her new collection using new colour-filling techniques. She is also working on a new 3D loop collection based on the works of Dutch graphic artist M.C. Escher for this summer. The price range of her silver jewellery is from US$40 to US$100.

The Oolalaa jewellery is a combination of vintage objects, recycled materials and contemporary elements, while the designer-manufacturer's experience as an architect and knowledge of the history of art, architecture and design merge and echo in her work. The label's most popular collections are "Alona," a bright, multicoloured buttons and beads necklace series, and "Michaella," rough leather bracelets with vintage gold and silver button clusters. "Since my range of jewellery is very wide, wholesale prices start at around US$27 and end at US$1,550 for pieces that include 18-carat to 24-carat gold. The average price is from US$50 to US$95," said Ms Ginzburg-Alony.

Oolalaa

Orit Karseboom Anat Collection

As for Orit Karseboom, she has recently developed a silver collection integrating ceramics. "I designed the ceramic stones together with artist Gila Hamtzani. At the beginning, I used ceramic stones in a traditional setting but now I am working on ceramics directly with hot wax. The wax technique allows freedom in sculpture similar to working with clay." One of the label's signature silver collections, the entirely handmade "Earth Collection", also derives from the ambition to test the materials to their limits. Anat Perez of Anat Collection says, "I use a huge variety of materials – and that is a big part of the uniqueness of my line. Not only classic materials like brass, beads and leather are applied but also reused and recycled materials like wood, rubber, textiles and glass." One of the techniques that the company is using is the Italian mesh technique, involving knitted work of Swiss silver wire combined with nylon wire for elasticity, coloured with treated enamel. One of their most popular collections is the "Denim" collection combining denim fabric and metal components.

Does the origin still matter?

Anat Collection

In the era of globalisation, does it still matter where a specific piece of jewellery is from? Are the styles becoming so similar that customers can no longer differentiate pieces from Korea or France or Israel? It seems no two views on this are identical.

"The ‘Made in Israel' tag is important and has significance in labelling the jewellery as original, unique and of good quality. Israel is a unique country regarding its environment and as the furnace of several cultures," said Anat Shimron. It is hard for her to summarise "Israeli design" as it has more than one characteristic. "In general, I think Israeli design has multiple facets, since most of it is unique."

Anat Shimron

Oolalaa

Oolalaa's Ms Ginzburg-Alony has a different view: "In today's global-village atmosphere, the origin of the designer is of less importance. It is more important to provide fashionable, interesting, high-standard and quality jewellery, regardless of the ‘Made in…' tag." She believes Israel is no different from the rest of the world regarding its fashion influences. "Here you can find high-end European and American designers and also high-street stores like H&M, Zara, Mango and Banana Republic."

Orit Karseboom, however, says that the "Made in Israel" tag suggests prestige and quality, and companies are ambitious and eager to market their jewellery on an international basis.

Orit Karseboom

Source: Asia's Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Review