Insights into Autumn/Winter 2010/11

Sharon Graubard, senior vice president of trend analysis, and Monique Umeh, accessories editor of New York-based trend forecaster Stylesight, shared with us their views on the key design details for Autumn/Winter 2010/11, based on this year's runway.

The newest items, they said, are gutsy enough to take centre stage in an ensemble rather than demurely playing a supporting role, often with an offbeat or quirky element that expresses the wearer's personality. These idiosyncratic designs go beyond seasonal trends to become those long-cherished favourites that work as a woman's signature.

The statement necklace continues, with big, gutsy proportions. Bib styles, breastplates, and chokers keep the focal point high towards the face. Antiqued metals, bits of fabric and ribbon, tassels, faceted gems and giant pearls are all part of the mix.

Chains for necklaces and bracelets benefit from the new over-scaled proportions. Finishes include yellow gold, blackened and gunmetal tones, and antiqued effects. Various link sizes and styles are used, alone or mixed in tangles or groups. Barbed wire prongs give an elegant punk look.

Pearls move way beyond their classic image and are used in unexpected, non-traditional ways. Styling ideas include tangled strands, pearl-studded links and hanging with golden charms. The palette for pearls expands into champagne, pink, grey, white and black, used alone or combined in one piece.

Whether in articulated metals, beaded braids or tough leathers, extra-wide cuff bracelets look wonderful either worn on their own or layered over clothing. Wearing a matching cuff on each arm gives a powerful, super-woman look.

Oversized stud earrings are part of the late 70s and early 80s revival that has influenced fashion for the last several seasons. Faceted shapes, floral motifs and big spherical shapes all look right. Eye-catching shoulder-duster earrings add an extra dose of disco-age glamour.

Chunky jewels adorn hands for day or evening, either worn in multiples or designed to be worn across two fingers. Opaque colours come from cabochon stones, luxe plastics or enamels; raw crystals, filigree and twisted metal knots add more dimension.

All kinds of hats and headgear look great for the season. Close-fitting helmet styles abound, whether in leather, satin or fur or knitted. Hand-knit looks continue in slouchy berets or pull-on caps; pompoms or fluffy mohair yarns add more cosy softness. Felt hats look best with high crowns and floppy brims. Wide headbands provide warmth in knitted, leather and stretch-velvet versions.

Scarves will be knitted into circular loops for loose cowls that are worn around the neck or draped over the head. Fluffy yarns and giant openwork stitches provide bulk without weight. Printed scarves return with woven silk, challis or chiffon grounds in square or rectangular styles.

While there are still plenty of roomy shapes on the runway, belts are key for pulling in the silhouette to highlight the waist, a new focal point. Plain, borrowed-from-the-boys leathers are great for cinching paper-bag waists or accenting tailored coats and suits. The multi-wrap belt continues; neutral grounds soften biker chic embellishments like studs, nail heads and metal rings. Corset looks get surface details like trapunto stitching, seams and buckles. Soft sash belts in satins, leathers and brocades are new.

Opera-length gloves are key. Studs, ombré effects and pieced constructions in sleek skins, stretch fabrics or cosy hand-knits are hot. Wide gauntlets offer more drama. Fingerless looks are in every silhouette: driving, wristlets, opera length and arm-warmers.

Legs are the newest place to get shimmer, whether with sequins and paillettes, gold-plated surfaces or sparkly yarns. Cosy knitted tights and socks look right; ribs or heathered yarns provide more dimension. Sheer black hosiery returns, whether in plain, lacy or dotted Swiss styles.

Fur brings luxury to every category for the season. Natural colours like taupe, grey, beige, dark brown and black look elegant, whether the fur itself is real or fake. Unexpected items getting the fur treatment include helmet hats, roomy satchels, statement mittens and, most surprisingly, shoes.